Dog sport information series - Weight Pull

There are so many activities dogs can be involved in these days. Many people know of “dog shows” (confirmation) for purebred dogs, and of course there is competitive obedience trials, but have you heard of these? (just to name a few)... 

 - Rally-O  
 - Backpacking  

 - Endurance
 - Lure Coursing
 - Agility  
 - Tracking
 - Fly Ball
 - Sledding
 - Earth dog
And many more.

Today we are going to cover and conquer some misconceptions surrounding the world of Weight Pull.
 

                                             WEIGHT PULL
Weight pull is in brief, the sport of a dog (wearing an especially designed harness) pulling a trailer with weight over a short distance without any force from their handler/owner within a specific time frame. 
Weight Pull became an official event earning dogs’ points and subsequent titles with the Australian National Kennel Club (ANKC) in January 2015, and whilst the dogs and owners that participate in this sport have a fantastic time, more recently there has been much criticism and controversy surrounding the activity. As always, lack of understanding leads to misconception so here are some truths to conquer your concerns.
Firstly, safety and health are always the priority of the club running a weight pull event. Dogs that are overweight, injured (including pre-existing injuries), or suffer from health conditions are directed not to enter.  Dogs under 15 kilos are not permitted to enter and there are also age restrictions whereby dogs must be 18 months of age before competing, in order to allow bone and muscle development.
 

The harnesses that are used during weight pull are very different to the harnesses people use to walk their dogs, or even for other activities such as tracking. The harnesses are designed to evenly distribute the weight across the dog so that there is no specific pressure on any part of the dog and they are also padded as to not cause any skin sensitivity or pressure chafing.

The beauty of this sport, which many “haters” don’t understand, is that you absolutely can not “force” your dog to participate. You (the handler) stand 5 meters back from the dog (behind the finish line) and are not permitted to hold any food, toys etc. You simply call your dog or use verbal command to entice your dog to come toward you... pulling the trailer/weight that is attached to the rear of the harness. If your dog doesn’t want to? It doesn’t. (Less pressure than I had in high school Phys ed.)
To earn a “title” in weight pull, the dog needs to pull 8 x times it’s body weight on 4 separate competition days. While that sounds scary if we compare it in human form, some dogs find it quite easy and actually thrive on the challenge the activity presents. If we recognize many dogs were originally bred for activities such as pulling carts and sledding, it is part of their genetic predisposition and natural urge. Some dogs’ natural composition make Weight Pull a fantastic option for exercise. 
Like exercising for humans, weight pull for dogs is about technique and training. Warm up and warm down is as equally important, if not more so, than the activity itself. It would be considered irresponsible for a person to enter their dog without any prior training into the sport and expect them to enjoy and/or excel. Would you expect a 17-year-old human to walk into a gym for the first time, bench press 100kgs correctly on their first go correctly and love it?
Like any dog training, it takes practice, consistency and often, small gains. Starting your dog by pulling 2 litre bottle of water, then pulling a tyre... get them used the feel of the harness. Work on that recall so that your dog will want to come to you when called.

“But if I teach my dog weight pull, it’s going to always pull me when I take it for a walk, right?” Wrong.  We wear different uniforms depending on what job we’re about to do, right? You might wear a suit to a job interview, pajamas for bed, high-vis for a worksite, a gown to a ball. Depending on what you wear, your behaviour and what your task is will change. Equipment on dogs works the same way. A weight pull harness feels different to the collar you walk it on, and as such, your dog is allowed to pull in the harness, but not pull when on their collar.  If your dog pulls on their collar when you go for a walk, it doesn’t necessarily mean it will be great at weight pull (it does mean, you need a trainer to help you with loose-lead walking!) similarly, because it seems lazy and likes to sleep it doesn’t mean it would hate weight pull!
To be a good dog owner is more than food and shelter. It’s about providing enrichment, exercise and stimulation to get the best out of your dog and your relationship together.
Come on down to the next weight-pull event. Ask questions. See for yourself. Note that any abuse toward an animal or another person will never be tolerated. Like other activities, it’s a sport for fun and the best thing is, even in competition it’s not about one dog competing against another – it’s purely about the dog competing against itself and reaching its own potential, on its own choice.

For more information or to get involved, visit:
https://www.astcv.com/weight-pull.html or

http://www.amcv.org.au/weightpull.html

Teaching people. Training dogs. Evolving together. 

Ph: 0421 728 008

www.k9evolution.com.au

The problem with not desexing your dog

Sadly, I've encountered an increasing amount of dog owners choosing not to desex their pet, yet insisting on taking their untrained dogs to off-lead dog parks and dog beaches. I have had quite heated conversations with some of these dog owners and quite often it starts as innocent as this: Owner: Yeh, I have a really cute Staffy X (you can substitute this with almost any breed/cross breed) and I'm thinking about letting her have puppies. Me: You have a Staffy X, so not a pure-breed with papers? Owner: No - but she's really cute Me: Are you a registered breeder? Owner: No - but I have a friend who has a really cute dog so I reckon they would have gorgeous puppies Me: And how would that benefit the dog world? Owner: What do you mean? They would have cute puppies! Me: You have a mixed breed dog, your friend has a mixed breed dog... so neither of you know the history of your dogs genetics, whether they have genetic issues that could pass down to the puppies, there is no benefit to the breed, and you aren't actually a registered breeder so do you know what it takes to actually responsibly breed a dog, look after newborn puppies, what could go wrong, and how you would feel if every single one of the puppies ended up in a shelter within 12 months?

Owner: It will be fine. At this point generally I am dismissed. I am not offended, as I generally feel that these owners know the validity of the questions that I ask, and at no point do I ever tell them I think they are idiots, I am purely asking questions and yet that is too much.

The fact of the matter is, unless you are a registered breeder with a pedigree dog, mating your dog with another pedigree dog - you are part of the problem, not the solution. Bodies like Dogs Victoria state that breeding should be "for the better of the breed" - and responsible breeders know the genetic histories of their dogs and thus, only breed dogs that don't have heritable diseases.

The department of agriculture even have a Code of Practice for the breeding of animals with Heritable Defects that cause disease. In the 2015-2016 Financial Year, the RSPCA alone received over 45,000 dogs into their shelters as surrenders or strays with less than 40% of these dogs being reclaimed. That's just the RSPCA. You can see all their annual report statistics by following this link: RSPCA Published Statistics These numbers are minute in comparison to a study that aimed to look at Surrendered and Stray dogs Australia wide across all councils pounds, shelters and rescue groups. " In 2012–2013, there were an estimated 9.3 dog admissions per 1000 residents (211,655 dog admissions). Of these admissions, 4.4 per 1000 residents were reclaimed (101,037 reclaimed), 2.9 per 1000 residents were rehomed (66,443 rehomed) and 1.9 per 1000 residents were euthanized (43,900 euthanized)" Full article These dog owners are also the same people who take their dog(s) whether on heat or not to off lead dog parks and beaches. This is more than just a problem because of "accidental breeding", but behaviourally can cause massive issues. Aggression, hyper-arousal, fights can all come about due to entire animals "playing" together. To be completely transparent, I have an entire male dog. BUT I would never have him at an off-lead dog area with unfamiliar dogs/bitches and I am completely in control of his interactions at all times. He is a >6 generation pedigree dog with champion lineage and the breeder knows full genetic history of both Dam and Sire (Mum & Dad). We are members of Dogs Victoria, The American Staffordshire Club of Victoria and take great pride in being responsible dog owners and representatives of the breed. I discuss the "off lead dog park" situations with these same dog owners who "want to breed" and while they recognise their dog has no recall and seems to be more aggro at off lead areas, they continue to take them there "for exercise" with little to no comprehension of the risks they are putting their (or other peoples) dogs in. Did you know there are actually health benefits for neutering your dog?

• Spaying helps prevent uterine infections and breast tumors, which are malignant or cancerous in about 50 percent of dogs
• Neutering your male companion prevents testicular cancer and some prostate problems.
  
  In addition, it can help with behaviour issues including reducing your dog's want to "roam" and it has been noted to calm other behaviour related issues. (This can be dependant again on what age the dog is desexed, and the genetic predisposition of the dog in the first place).
  If you love your dog, LOVE your dog. You don't need to create a litter of puppies to show your love. Love is more than cuddles and treats - love is about providing a safe and stimulating environment and home for your dog.
  The dog you have right now. 

Why dog trainers aren't cheap

The cost of living is expensive. It's undeniable. And with the responsibility of owning a dog, no doubt the costs rack up here too. Food, grooming, vet bills, pet insurance, worming, flea treatments, vaccinations, registration, toys, bedding.. the list goes on.

So then you realise your dog's behaviour isn't where you want it to be. Perhaps it just doesn't seem to listen to you. It doesn't come back when you call. Maybe it's overreactive around other dogs, it pulls like crazy when you go for a walk, or even worse, it's started to growl and show concerning behaviour to you or your family. What is your go to? A dog trainer or behaviourist of course!

There are two types of queries: A) Straight up - "How much do your services cost?" or B) We have a chat, we understand the problem and explain how we can fix it and then before we lock in the appointment, the question of how much it will cost comes up again, and quite often the pleading excited voice that can see the light at the end of the behaviour tunnel becomes deflated and somewhat confused. "Wow, I didn't realise it cost that much".

Of course, there are many trainers out there. Some are good, some are great and some may not be what you need at all. And of course, sometimes you're not necessarily going to get what you paid for. But to make it clear, there is a reason why many (not all, but many) good trainers do not give advice for free. While I do not speak for all trainers, let this be a bit of an explanation for the cost breakdown for the reputable, accredited trainers out there.

1) We pay a lot to get our accreditation. Yes, there are some "cornflake" accreditations out there. The NDTF (National Dog Trainers Federation) is the only government accredited dog trainers course in Australia. Any trainer who does not have the NDTF qualification, has not satisfactorily completed the units that satisfy the government course.

This course in itself costs a pretty penny. Not to mention the time, study, work and dedication students have to put in, in order to pass.

2) Trainers who want to excel in their craft often attend and participate in additional workshops and classes to update the latest techniques and hear from legends in the industry. A one day workshop can cost in the vicinity of $400. That a trainer pays from their own pocket. To be able to further assist you, and your dog.

3) Salary. For many trainers, this is their sole income. Would you expect a plumber to come to your house and fix your sink for nothing? Even if it takes them 10 minutes? No - because that is their livelihood. Same for many in the dog training industry. There are no penalties, paid sick days, paid holidays - if we don't turn up, we don't get paid. And we all know, in today's society, we all need to pay the bills.

4) Insurance. All (good and reputable) dog trainers have insurance. Should your dog injure someone, another animal or cause significant damage whilst in our care/under our instruction, we can be held liable. Insurance isn't cheap.

5) Tools of the trade. How much does a carpenter have in terms of tools? Well how much does a dog trainer have in terms of tools. Many of us have more leads, collars, treats, and equipment to fit all dogs of all sizes with all needs. Imagine a trainer turning up and saying "oh sorry, I only have one collar that fits a Poodle - hope that will go over your Rottweiler's head!" - No, we need to cater for all.

6) Safety. We obviously do our very best to avoid being injured, but with certain dogs, especially ones that we know really need our help, we are undoubtedly placed in compromising positions in terms of our safety. We may get bitten, scratched, bowled over, pulled, pushed - we put our bodies on the line to help you. And recognise that due to this, like a professional athlete, our bodies often pay the consequence. 

7) Last but not least - experience. If you have a cold, you go to a GP. If you have a phycological problem, you see a psychologist. If your dog is injured, you take it to a vet. If it has behaviour issues, you see a trainer/behaviourist who understands and can assist with these needs. 

Remember, like with any goods or services, you have the right to shop around and ask questions - it is important to have realistic expectations and question the trainer of what they anticipate a long term training plan will look like. For some needs, a session or two may be enough - some dogs will require more visits and dedication. 

Did you know, the best way to avoid exorbitant costs on training is to listen to your trainer, ask questions so you understand the methods and techniques they are using and commit to working your dog everyday with these lessons so you don't have to start from scratch every time your trainer visits.

A good trainer doesn't train your dog. 

A good trainer teaches the owner how to train the dog.

Always remember, having a well behaved, rounded, confident and balanced dog isn't about the money you're paying today. It's about the investment for your dog's life.

Is there any better investment than that?

www.k9evolution.com.au

Dog Attacks and our Contribution to behaviour

According to the City of Casey, within a 12 month period there were 215 reported dog attacks - 65 against people and 150 against other animals (Cranbourne Leader October 24, 2017).
Unfortunately in the past month alone, there are been 4 (perhaps more) attacks that have received a lot of coverage in the media due to the injuries caused to humans and more often than not, children in these situations.
The media are very quick to jump to conclusions and breed blaming and shaming, which is an issue in itself. In one of the situations that received higher media attention, the breed of dog was a Boerboel (South African Mastiff) and yet in several news reports on different channels, the images shown to the public were that of Staffordshire Bull Terriers.

BOERBOEL (South African Mastiff)

STAFFORDSHIRE BULL TERRIERS

The reason why I raise this as an issue, is that A) the history of temperament of these two different breeds are quite different, B) the number of Stafford owners who are now concerned their dog is a vicious killer waiting to attack is on the rise (I know this due to the amount of concerned dog owners who have called me in the last fortnight for advice) and C) If we put this into human terms, imagine if we always blamed Blonde people for ALL crimes, even though one situation it was a brunette, one situation is was a redhead - I mean they all have hair, so what's the difference?

You may think it's very different, but it's not. If we talk about Nature VS Nurture for humans, can we not apply this same process to animals and in particular, to our dogs?
Just this morning another very sad dog attack on a child was reported. And this time it was not "a usual suspect". It was a Jack Russell.

JACK RUSSELL

So here is where I ask the media to stop talking about "vicious, aggressive, big dogs" and instead, ask are we open to considering that is the handling, training and discipline of the dogs themselves?

We are becoming a society that is afraid to provide consequence for undesirable/unacceptable behaviour. Consider the younger generations of kids coming through. Parents are told "smacking is abuse", "grounding/isolation is abuse", don't provide criticism as this can effect self esteem, ETC. I must start by saying I do not have children, and please understand I mean no disrespect whatsoever - in all honesty I believe today is the hardest time to try and raise a child. I am so thankful I grew up before smartphones, Wi-Fi, the need for "likes and followers" on Instagram, and schools that don't have cool playground equipment because kids MIGHT just have fun and break a leg in the process.

We have come a long way in some aspects of understanding our dogs needs. Nutritional advice by far is the biggest win. We have discovered dogs do share traits like anxiety and allergies, they get cold outside in winter and need coats, and we have things like dog rehabilitation swimming pools, agility, fly-ball etc.
As with everything where there are gains, this also means we have losses. 
People are forgetting dogs are dogs. And dogs are animals. Not humans. Animals.

Scroll through the internet and look for a dog trainer - you will see many claiming to be "positive only". According to the National Gundog Association: "Positive-only trainers avoid all aversives.  Although all ‘positive-only’ trainers make use of that part of the principles of learning theory concerning rewards, they avoid the use of those principles, which concern punishment or coercion"
To put this in basic terms, reward a dog when they are doing something good to encourage that behaviour to reoccur, and ignore bad behaviour - thus the dog will likely learn to repeat the desired behaviour in order to receive reward and praise.

I personally do not agree with Pure Positive only training methods. I am not saying that Positive Only trainers are bad - It is like some people only want to use herbal medicine and that works for them - others want the real drugs. When I have a migraine, I don't want to take a lot of herbs and plant roots even though it may work -  I believe slipping a Panadol Rapid will do the job effectively and quicker so that would be my recommendation for a friend who called me with a headache.

What I believe in is Balanced Training. Training that is flexible to suit the needs of the dog and the owner who will be responsible for implementing the advice provided by the trainer each day. Another example - if a dog is not motivated by food, why would we (try to) reward the dog with food treats. A Border Collie would learn to use chopsticks to eat if it meant a long game of tug and fetch, whereas the ultimate reward for a Labrador might be cube of cheese. 

So now this brings me to the alleged increase of dog aggression and reactivity in our pets. If we take it right back to basics (the day we bring puppy home), how does our interaction with puppy start?
Puppy school perhaps, but what does that look like? Is that "socialising" where the puppies jump all over one another, or is it puppy learning to be around other dogs, puppies and humans and remaining calm?
When we take doggy for a walk, do we put them on the spongiest most comfortable harness with pretty patterns because it looks nice and we don't want doggy to hurt themselves when they're dragging us down the street, or do we consider an alternative tool like a martingale where we can teach "loose lead walking" and a dog that will not pull at all?
To quote one of my mentors Bob Graham:
"A moment of discomfort prevents a lifetime of regret". 

If a dog understands what the boundaries are, and what is at stake - they are intelligent enough to MAKE THE RIGHT CHOICE when it comes to their behaviour.
Example: (From dog perspective) The doorbell rings.. ooh, that means more people are here. I like to jump all over people when they come over. But I have learned that if I jump on people, I am going to be shut in the laundry for 10 minutes without any toys, food or my comfortable bed. I know that if instead, I don't jump and I go and grab my toy and lie on my bed with my toy, I will be allowed to be around these humans which is really important to me.
That sounds simple doesn't it? And yet so many people would instead hear the doorbell, race the dog to the door, hold the dog by the collar and as the dog jumps, apologise profusely before offering two options 1) I'll put doggy outside or 2) he'll calm down in a few minutes.
I know. I used to be one of them.
And you know what? That is okay to be one of those people if you are prepared to do something about it.
If I said to you "if you let your dog jump on visitors, your dog will be KILLED", would that create a higher sense of urgency and purpose?

On behalf of all dog trainers, we do not like having to tell pet owners that their dog is likely to maim, hurt, injure or kill. But we need pet owners to understand they have an ANIMAL with TEETH.. if they feel threatened, like they have no choice or way out, if they are challenged, they will do what is instinctive to protect themselves. 

If you read this and think "yep! I'm calling a trainer tomorrow", that's great. But please be aware that (unless you get a dodgy trainer), a reputable balanced trainer will tell you there is no quick fix. If your dog is growling at you now, one session is not going to "fix" your dog to the point where you can ever leave your baby alone unattended with your dog. Ever.
Training a dog is a life. long. commitment. 

We as dog owners must take some responsibility for the behaviour of our dogs, similarly as your primary school principal would call you in to discuss your child if he/she were a bully. "What's going on at home? "Is your child getting enough stimulation?" "Is your child confident?"

Don't be afraid to reach out for help. Don't hesitate to ask questions. Don't fear judgement in admitting you don't know what to do. We will do whatever we can to improve the relationship between you and your dog so that you can share a beautiful, stress-free, loving relationship. A dog you will be proud of. And a dog that will be so thankful for your dedication it will show you nothing but respect and loyalty.
A dog that will not become another unfortunate statistic in surrendering or euthanizing.

Let's do this together.

Kelly Grace.
Director and Head Trainer
K9 Evolution.
www.k9evolution.com.au

Crate Training - Misconceptions of "the cage"

In my experiences as a Trainer, I come across dogs with all sorts of issues - destructive behaviour, separation anxiety, aggression and even injuries that require rehabilitation assistance. To name just a few.
In many of these situations I often ask "is your dog crate trained?" and more often than not, I get a look of horror like I just asked "do you throw your dog in a cupboard all day?" with a curt "No, we don't want to lock our dog in a cage."

I empathise. The first time I went to a friend's house and they had a dog in a crate all I could think was "that poor dog, locked up in that small pen". Until I found out the dog had just undergone major surgery and had to be confined for it's own health. So okay, that is one situation. Here are a few more:

1) You have an extremely hyperactive dog who has not completed obedience successfully (yet), and your friends asks you to babysit their kids tonight. You want to help, but what to do when you know Doggy is going to jump on them and possibly cause injury?
2) Your dog has major separation anxiety. Every time you leave the room, let alone the house, the dog gets into a frenzy and destroys your couch, your bed, your valuable teddy bear that your deceased Nanna gave to you at birth
3) Every time you need to take Doggy in the car to the vet, the kennels, the groomer, he gets into such a frenzy that at some point he will most likely cause you to have a car accident
4) You have introduced excitable little puppy into old boys house. He showing grumpiness as puppy will never leave him alone (and all you can hear is Danny Glover in Lethal Weapon saying "I'm too old for this
sh!t")
 - While I could give more examples, I think (hope) you catch my drift.. there are definite advantages of having a dog that is trained to be comfortable and content to be in a crate for a period of time.

Dogs (being descendants of wolves) often like to have their own space where they can relax - a space that is theirs where they can be left alone. Their hideaway. Their own bedroom/haven so to speak.

If you were to introduce a dog to a crate with POSITIVE experiences the whole way, do you think the dog would still believe it was an evil cage? Hell no! We can create the type of experience the dog associates with that crate, one that is positive, one where they would choose to relax inside, rather than taking over your couch.



So how to we do it? Like with all dog training, with patience and allowing the dog to make the right choice that will benefit them. 
As an example, lets say you hate emptying the dishwasher. Like that is the. worst. job. ever. 
If I gave you $50 bucks every time you emptied the dishwasher, would you do it? Would that make it more appealing than if I gave you absolutely nothing if you sat on the couch? Of course! 
So, if we gave your dog a treat every time he entered the crate, and no treats any other time, do you think that may entice them to go in? I would be willing to bet that $50 on it.

The key is, slow steps. You don't throw a biscuit in the crate, and as soon as the dog enters you shut the door and walk away.. hell no! We introduce it slowly.

When you're ready to introduce your dog and/or puppy to crate training, contact us and we can come and show you a step by step method to success and creating a positive experience for both you and your dog.
We look forward to being a part of your dog's evolution.

Common Plants Toxic to Dogs

To us, they are pretty flowers or harmless vines - to your dog, they are the cause of a painful rash, depression, diarrhoea, vomiting.. or worse.

While there are certain breeds that are more prone to allergic reactions and skin irritations than others, (Staffords could basically walk on grass and their paws flare up!) these are some of the more common plants to watch out for and consider avoiding during your next garden makeover!

HYDRANGEA

HYDRANGEA

May cause vomiting, diarrhoea, depression, shortness of breath, collapse, coma and worse case - rapid death from cyanide toxicit

TULIPS

May cause vomiting, diarrhoea, depression, hyper salivation - the most toxic part being in the bulb - so particularly keep an eye out on those digging dogs!

LILIES

Vomiting, disinterest in food and no urination (these can be the early signs of kidney failure), depression
(If you do like to keep lilies in the house, cut the pollen stems out before arranging in a vase, that way they won't drop making it less likely your dog will ingest)

LILIES - Cut the dark pollen stems before arranging in the home

PEACE LILY

If chewed or ingested, can cause significant irritation of the mouth leading to drooling, vomiting and difficulty swallowing

CYCLAMEN

May induce significant gastrointestinal irritation - intense vomiting, drooling and diarrhoea. Heart rhythm abnormalities and seizures have also been known to cause death.

CYCLAMEN

OLEANDER

Similar to the cyclamen, gastrointestinal irritation (See above), loss of coordination, muscle tremors, shallow breathing, hypothermia and death from abnormal heart function.

AZALEAS & RHODODENDRONS

Gastrointestinal irritation which cases drooling, diarrhoea, weakness, loss of coordination & depression. Severe poisoning could lead to coma and death from cardiovascular collapse.

IRIS

Vomiting, diarrhoea, salivation & depression

CHRYSANTHEMUM

Drooling, diarrhoea & vomiting, depression, loss of coordination, tremors and in severe cases, seizures.

ENGLISH IVY

Vomiting, drooling, diarrhoea and abdominal pain. 

WANDERING JEW

WANDERING JEW

Dermatitis manifesting as intense itchiness, rash or bump formation, weeping of the skin and scabs.

As this is a more of a contact skin allergy, the most common areas of irritation will be on exposed areas such as paws, abdomen, groin, anal area & scrotum.

Remember, these are just some of the more common plants that can be toxic to your dog. Like humans, there are many other sources of allergies and poisons within the home and yard (for example, weed sprays, insect bites, insect spray, cleaning products).

Always note any change in your dogs demeanour and health and if you're concerned, please contact your local vet straight away. 

Alternatively, there are a number of Animal Emergency Centres open 24/7. 

For your nearest AEC, visit www.aecvets.com.au.

Do dogs act out for revenge?

How many times have you heard someone say "My dog did that in revenge because he didn't like that I.... "?

"My dog went to the toilet on my bed because I went out"

"My dog ripped up the couch because I didn't take him for a walk"

"My dog started digging up my favourite plant because I wasn't giving him attention when I had friends over"

Well, prepare for your bubble to be burst. Revenge is actually more complicated than you might think. According to Stephen Beckerman, a Penn State anthropologist. “Revenge is a desire to not just punish the culprit, but to change his mind, to make him see -- if only in his death throws -- that he was wrong.” 

So, it may be giving a bit too much credit to think Woofy has intentionally waited for you to go out, storing his bowel movements to cleverly release at an opportune time, just to really annoy you.

The more likely answer is that the dog didn't have adequate access to an appropriate place to go to the toilet, or hasn't been properly trained to understand where and where is not an appropriate place to go. Dog's noses are super sensitive, so if they have urinated inside before (on the carpet, particularly), even after a spray and scrub with a towel, they can still pick up that scent and therefore re-offend in the same place.

Similarly, other destructive behaviours are more likely going to be a reaction to something else - boredom, frustration, lack of obedience/training, behaving in line with a genetic predisposition  - see previous blog titled "Understanding a dogs breed".

It's important to look at all the factors that can be at play - has the environment changed? Is the dog in any pain/discomfort? Was there anything happening outside (fireworks, a party next door, the neighbours introducing a new pet) that could impact the dog's sensory environment?

If you're not sure what could have changed or how to overcome the undesireable behaviour, contact us at info@k9evolution.com.au. 

At least you can sleep a little safer knowing Woofy isn't going to bite you in your sleep because you didn't share the last Tim Tam.